Both Catuaí and Gesha can be fruit forward cultivars when processed well, and this micro lot has that in abundance. Cherry and plum come through first, ripe and jammy. Pineapple and red grape sit alongside, adding sweetness and a little exotic, tropical fruit. Underneath, a light molasses sugar note gives the cup its syrupy weight. The light roast leaves all that fruit intact rather than adding roast, and a fresh lime edge lifts the structure. El Palto finishes long and juicy, the cherry lingering on the palate.

The Guerreros of the El Palto community are one such family that have been replanting with Gesha, Marshel and Catuaí over the last six to seven years. After three generations of growing coffee and selling to local commodity buyers the family decided to make wholesale changes to their approach in 2020. With a goal of higher prices and visibility for their work, each member works their own two hectares, and they share centralised washing and drying stations to process the coffee together.

This lot is a natural, the whole cherries dried rather than washed clean first. That is a harder process to keep clean, especially in Jaén’s climate, and it leans on exactly the control the Guerreros have built in the last five years. Working alongside an agronomist, with refractometers, thermometers and barrels to hand, they have made real strides forward in their coffee quality. This light roast is pitched to hold the fruit a natural like this gives, rather than bring out roast character.